Well, it’s our last full day in India. Where’s it gone?
Firstly, Delhi. It’s not at all what either one of us expected. As we approached, about 30 kms out, we’ve never seen so much building going on. Huge blocks of apartments, offices, sports stadia, roads etc as far as you can see. It was like the pictures you see of Shanghai!
And then there’s old Delhi, which was like a more hectic Mumbai, if that’s possible. Narrow streets/alleys with scooters, carts, people, monkeys etc, colourful, interesting, exciting and feeling safe. Everyone buying, selling, carrying, fetching, washing, sweeping. But nonetheless, like a lot of India.
Then there’s New Delhi. Imagine a planned city, designed, engineered and built by the British on a par with the boulevards of Paris or the avenues of London. Buildings courtesy of Lutyens, with style and panache. It’s glorious, and only spoilt by the mist that is here at this time of year. It’s got the Indian equivalent of the Menin Gate at Ypres-the India gate with the tomb to the unknown soldier, the Viceroy’s house ( now the “pad” of the President ), parliament buildings on a par with anywhere else. It’s splendid. Just a shame that it’s cool and misty. We’d love to see it in it’s glory!
Then there’s the Imperial Hotel — it is!! It is a masterpiece, easily on a par with Raffles. Beautifully proportioned, glorious public rooms, restaurants on a par with the best ( more on that ) , undergoing it’s annual spring clean around the pool and gardens whilst they’re not in use. But even asking for an explanation of their tipping policy from a member of staff seemed to be a tippable event!! We much prefer the hotels ( in the majority ) where you tip at the end of your stay, and it’s shared out with all the staff.
Like Raffles, the Imperial is clearly a relic of British Colonial rule, with statues, plaques, paintings of the royal family everywhere. But interestingly enough, when you ask, the British era is explained as follows. At the beginning, with the East India Co, the Indians were exploited and abused, but once the British military arrived, so did the police, law and order, the legal system, sanitation, roads and railways etc. in fact, the foundations for a free, democratic society. That might sound a bit glib, but there is still a respect here for the British — especially for a cricket playing Yorkshireman!
That’s not to say that there aren’t problems. The caste system is alive and well, and our guides have been able, through clothes, colour of turbans etc to pick out the warriors, the farmers, the traders, the craftsmen etc. Generally, with only one exception, we have not sensed any problems there, but it is ingrained. The exception made us uncomfortable a couple of times, and it was evident that the Sikhs, like the Irish and the Belgians in Europe, are the butt of Indian jokes. ( no offence to ALL our Irish and Belgian friends who we know are reading this! )
The biggest single impression is the size of the Muslim population here. We’re told that it’s 80% Hindu, 15% Muslim and then Sikh, Buddhist, Christian etc. but the Moghul/Muslim influence on architecture and design is immense. Just to see the fabulous buildings, with the evolution of the craftsmanship, the inlay work with marble, the design and building of domes, the symmetry, is astonishing. And Indians are proud of this mixed heritage. Apparently, the Moghuls did not use slave labour, but paid well for the best craftsmen, who travelled from Persia, Turkey etc to work. This in the 1500’s! Brian, Sean and our architectural friends would really love this, and all built with bamboo scaffolding. Now we know why Sean grows bamboo!
Our driver Vikram deserves a mention — in 14 days not one accident with Vikram. He dropped us here at the hotel last night at 17.30 and was on a bus this morning at 04.00 for an 11 hour trip home to the Himalayan foothills, which the Indians call the Himarlias Interestingly enough, we’ve only seen 4 females driving cars all the time we’ve been in Delhi, and one of them was a US amazonian marine! Is it cultural, because it’s not forbidden?
In summary, India is unlike anywhere else that we’ve ever visited, and has been incredible. But as lots of people we’ve met have said — ” welcome to Incredible India”
Doug and Louise.
Ps. I’m writing this on the wc, but it’s nothing that I’ve eaten. I’ve just had my 1st Delhi tuk-tuk ride!
New home at Ribatou