Author: Doug Riley

Having been blown away by FLW’s house, we saw the similarities with this house (Crispin’s & Cecile’s. Thanks for your hospitality. 

 

The view from Crispin’s 43 years old E type! 

   

Well, the highlight of the New York trip was meeting up with Yuka and Chige. It’s been years since we last saw Yuka, and 2 lovely daughters and a husband later, there was a lot to catch up on. Hopefully we’ll see them in France in years to come.

One big disappointment for Lou has been that so far no one has asked her for ID when buying a drink. She doesn’t understand why not! After all, you have to be 21 or over!

New York does seem to be young, vibrant and exciting, and the Refinery Hotel did remind us of the French hotels of Mama Shelter. Great.

Over the last couple of years, in Paris, we’ve become convinced that Indians are taking over the world. All the chefs in Parisian restaurants seem to be Indian, and in Rome last month it seemed to be the same. And now in NY, the taxi drivers, cooks etc all seem to be Indians (not native Americans!)

We weren’t really expecting to get straight into the music theme of the holiday in NY, but the trip to Greenwich Village was the start for me. The home of the “folk” movement in the 60’s, with Bob Dylan, Joan Baez, Phil Ochs and of course Tom Paxton, brought home to me on Bleeker Street, Greenwich Village, memories of my  introduction to the protest/anti-Vietnam movement when at university in Manchester. And to think that Bob Dylan is playing Albi next month!! Can’t wait.

When we went to Ground Zero in NY, it does make you reflect on the day itself, and on how unbelievably horrific it must have been. And the sheer numbers of low flying commercial aircraft over Manhattan every day is unnerving. It just doesn’t look right. And therefore it’s bizarre to fly in the USA today, with what seems to be a very casual approach to security. In Europe, every new security measure is explained away by saying that the USA has demanded it’s introduction. And today, flying out of the city that suffered 9/11, to fly to Chicago, we did not have to remove our laptops/ tablets, liquids from our hand luggage, take off our belts, there were no big plastic boxes in which to put everything, and for me, with my artificial knee, no need to take off my shoes. These things are absolutely obligatory in Europe, but not in the USA. It doesn’t make sense.

Chicago feels very different from NY. Less manic, and whilst the traffic in from the airport was very busy, the cars are not as big. It just has a different feel to it completely. Looking forward to tomorrow and to meeting up with very distant relatives. Despite the cold. The concierge suggested that it might snow tomorrow, and to be honest, it feels like it could, which is crazy after NY and the heat. But because everything is imperial here, distances, height, weight, time, and temperatures, we might be getting confused. It’s surprising how soon you forget imperial measures. Anyway, off to bed now.

Well, where to begin? 

The last and only time that we were in New York was in 1989, and boy has it changed! Admittedly, we’ve travelled more since then, and therefore it’s less intimidating to us, but there’s just such a feel good vibe to the city. We’ve walked all over, been out late at night, and everyone has been so friendly and helpful. LouIse today said that she’s going to have to change her opinion of the USA if this continues!

For example, Central Park was more or less off limits last time and now it’s a must see tourist spot. And as it’s a public space, there’s no smoking, no drinking, no bbq’s, no loud music. It’s just a lovely place to be. Our hotel is next to Bryant Park, behind the NY library, and there are pétanque courts with lessons ( & the players were good!), children’s play areas, board game areas for chess & backgammon with the boards available, a little band giving waltz lessons and then a concert etc. There is a real effort to use the open spaces for everyone, and it feels so welcoming.

It also feels less “American” and more cosmopolitan. There are times when you feel that you could be in Paris or London. The traffic is horrendous, but much less aggressive than we remember, the lights are obeyed, the crossings used. And then it’s more like being in India – the shop fronts, the colour and the activity. As they say, if you’re tired of New York, then you’re tired of life.

The down sides? The “tipping” culture is truly alien to us. It’s NOT a tip, it’s a 2nd tax on everything. It is VERY clearly not discretionary. Even when you get the bill/check, there’s a “suggested” tip of 15%, 18% and 20% shown with the amount. And the credit card system here is over 20 years behind the chip &  pin system that originated in France and is now widely used. It’s cumbersome and all paper based. And New York is not cheap!

Having been to the High Line and to Ground Zero, we have to say that they have been done very sympathetically, very thoughtfully, in our view in a more European style. 

It will be fascinating to see how we feel after St Louis, as we move southwards. I’m loving it & clearly Lou is enjoying it far more than she expected. Off to Chicago tomorrow.